The Emerald Shores of Ireland - Part 19

The Emerald Shores of Ireland
A trip journal by David Bowers
9/2/08-9/11/08
Part 19

The first stop in the factory itself was the mould making workshop. This is where crafters make the moulds that dictate how the basic shape of an item is going to look without decoration. Adjacent to the workshop are rows of shelves holding the moulds they have produced but aren't being used. The next stop is the first crafter demonstration. In this one, one crafter walks over to a big oven, where a metal door opens up and the body of a pitcher is taken out, then the metal door closes again. The crafter takes a long metal pole and the pole just seems to magically attach itself to the pitcher, and can carry the pitcher about the room, over to his workbench, even hold it out to show people. Meanwhile, another crafter is taking another glob of molten glass out of another oven using another metal pole, and takes it over to a small metal table to roll it out. After the first crafter is happy with the basic shape of the pitcher, the other comes over and slowly lets the second glob of glass, now shaped slowly flow down, still glowing orange, onto the pitcher. After this is done, the first crafter works this new glob of glass into the form of a handle, makes both attachments to the face of the pitcher, and then puts it back into the oven to slowly cool down, lest it would shatter Not before showing the pitcher with handle off to the room of course to applause.

We then go and see this type of work being performed in the factory environment by going up a flight of stairs to oversee this part of the factory floor from a catwalk. Up here we can see several stations setup where people are doing the same type work. I spot warnings to not sit or stand on the metal handrails, and I think I am back at an amusement park. I note that even along the tourist trail, the workers are allowed to show their hurling team spirit as theyre were several flags and posters visible. Some time is given to observe, then we head back downstairs, and continue on the tourist trail.

We go into another galley like area where we see some more of their famous sports trophies. It seems that whenever they are commissioned to make a piece, such as a trophy, they always make at least three: one for the customer, one for the factory archive, and one as a backup in case something should happen to the customer's original. In the case of a trophy where the winner may not be known until moments before the presentation, they may send a Waterford artisan with the trophy who is tasked with carving the winners details into it mere seconds after the results are final. They also explain about how their logo is the seahorse, and since you can't really trademark a drawing of a seahorse, they have modified the tail of the seahorse to be shaped live a clover, that is the unique touch they need to make it a private logo.

Leaving that gallery we come to a display about "Blank preparation and quality control". Here each piece is checked and here is the kicker, the workers are paid piece mail and if a piece fails its next quality check, the workers don't get paid for that piece. Also some of the moulds may leave a bowl with a lid on it that is great for strength in moulding and shaping, not so good for using it as a bowl. Before the piece can go onto cutting the excess glass has to be removed.

Next is the "Marking and Cutting" area. At this point the blank piece is prepared for the intricate decoration that Waterford is known for. They didn't show us the device, just a picture depicting the device that they use to carefully draw a grid of guidelines on the bank piece, wich will help the next group add the decorative work to the piece. On a shelf in this area are examples of our pitcher, remember the pitcher we saw the crafter making back in the glassblowing demonstration? Well here are examples of it with its 'lid', then one with the 'lid' cutoff, and then a pitcher with its gridlines marked on it.

Before heading into the cutting room, we see an old Waterford Glass Limited sign, and then a real nifty display. You may be aware that the Times Square crystal ball that is lowered on New Year's Eve is made by Waterford Crystal, and our host told us that they are constantly rehabbing the ball with new glass panels being replaced on parts of it every year. On the factory tour they have the factory replica of the new years eve ball, with a black background with stylized New York City skyscrapers. Our host says "Here is a piece that I'm sure I don't need to introduce to you" We are gazing at the new years eve ball, mere feet from it, or at least its replica, closer than even TV can get us, able to eye all the detail work. As we are intently starting at the ball, our host reaches over and presses a button, and then the replica starts to perform the same color changing light show as the one in Times Square. Impressive.

We next head into the cutting room where rows upon rows of workers are standing in front of workstations carefully cutting or etching in all the decorative work. This is really where the magic happens. It may not be much to look at while they are doing it, but when you see the finished product, it sure is impressive. Along the walls of the cutting rooms are shelves where examples of each piece they produce can be borrowed by the workers to compare with the piece they are making. Along the walls there are posters outlining how to make some of their cuts, that upon reading the posters in my photos are clearly aimed at the tourist, not the workers. In the same area other posters are hung with some of their advertisements, and even a poster detailing that Waterford city sponsored the Jamaica team in the 2003 Special Olympics.

Next we stop at another gallery like area, where they show off their Lismore line with a chandelier and complete table service in crystal. Its not quite a sales pitch, and the interesting thing about it was our host took a couple wine glasses off the display table and passed them around the group so we could get a much closer look at a piece of Waterford crystal, and get a feel for the weight and thickness of it. Our host showed us some more pieces, and in a case we could see a horse and carriage made out of crystal.

We next headed into the engraving area, here is where the real fine details are added. It was noted that due to the precision nature of the work, while it is okay to take pictures, in this area, please don't use a flash. Around this room they had some examples to look at, including some mostly round pieces of glass that appear ot have a picture etched into them. They had on display some large vases with the golden gate bridge, liberty bell, and the US flag etched into them. It was clear that while we weren't seeing much engraving getting done, we were entering another gallery area where we could gaze at the artistic side of their work. One case held glasses made of colored glass, another with St. Patrick etched into it. We turned one corner and the group stopped. Here on display was a replica depicting the 9/11 World Trade Center tragedy, in this case showing the firefighters carrying out Mychal Judge. On display alongside it are the various photos the artist used for inspiration. Our host upon seeing we were taking great interest in it mentioned that this is a replica of the original which was sent to the New York city Fire department, in tribute to all those that lost their lives saving others. Most of us didn't even know this tribute even existed. The display is tastefully done in its own gallery, and an US flag mounted above. In the foreground of the crystal, it looks like church windows in crystal with angels etched on them.. Again, a very pretty piece.

From here we went to the last room of the factory tour, which is where we get small group Q&A with a master crafter. In our case the crafter demonstrated the art of cutting a pattern into a bowl, and he also mentioned about how the artisans get paid piece mail and about quality controls. He said they realize that some pieces and some tasks are harder than others, so each part of making each piece has been evaluated and a pay rate assigned to each one. I'm still trying to imagine trying to administer that. Since today he is doing the demonstrations for the tours, he will get an hourly rate. But back to the patterns he pointed out many complex cuts are actually repetition on simpler cuts, and he proceeded to make a few so we could see the progression. I noticed his bench also had the finished product for that pitcher we had been following through the tour. It was asked what happens to reject pieces, and he responded the great thing about glass is its renewable, so you mess up, you just melt it back down and start over again. The only thing lost is the time spent on it. He went on to describe apprenticeship and all that. Then our host collected us up and escorted us back to the visitor's center.

On the way back to the visitors center, I noted they had even attached a Waterford flag to the top of the gate arm at the security checkpoint. From here we walked along a path that ensures we enter the factory store from the back. Here ends the tour, and shopping and window shopping can begin. Immediately inside the doors is a display of their full table service in red, blue or green, mixed with clear, so its only portions of the glass that are colored. They have the boxed sets sitting there with gift bows on them suggesting a great gift idea. Well, I think one of my cousins has a set, and as far as I know it merely sits in a display cabinet there as well.

A bit further in the store, the Waterford Crystal seahorse is available in crystal, but what really caught my eye was a complete chess set and board. I don't want to even imagine how much that runs. Oh wait, the tag I can see in my photo says "Not for Sale", so maybe some of the items in the cases in the shop are more gallery pieces. The store seems to be organized into sections by use or occasion to make it easier to find a specific piece. I don't think we did find the exact pieces we had bought, but we found items that were close and the prices comparable to what we paid. In one corner surrounded by windows was a Christmas tree with all Waterford ornaments, and then a whole section of sculptures, even a globe. We continue along the main path which lead us down stairs to the lower level of the store. What was not immediately clear is the lower level is affiliated merchants, general Irish souvenirs and the like. It seems they don't want Blarney Woolen Mills to have all the fun. I say this wasn't clear as we entered a department that had crystal, and since we were on the grounds of Waterford Crystal, we thought it was safe to assume we were looking at locally produced pieces. Well in this area we found that nativity set that Bob had spotted for about €30, so thought, at that price why not add one. We took the box over to the cashier who very openly warned us "You do realize that this was not made here at Waterford, right?" Well, no we didn't, and if that is the case, we have lost interest in it. I must give them credit for being very open in letting us know. We wound up having to walk back upstairs to get out of the shop and then down a few stairs to return to the visitors center. Passing by the information desk, I grabbed a brochure and noticed they had a set of 6 souvenir postcards in an envelope for only €1. Both of us bought a set.

We headed across the hall from the information desk to the cafeteria. Its getting old hat now, another bottle of that sparking Fanta lemonade, some salmon served with mixed vegetables and both boiled and mashed potato. I couldn't resist the raspberry coffee cake on display by the cashier's station so I added desert. We soon headed to a table, and I wonder if it was a conscious decision to not use Waterford serving pieces at the Waterford factory, but I looked in the sugar bowl and saw something I don't think I have ever seen in real life, sugar cubes. Little cubes of either white or brown sugar. We had our lunch, and truth told that was the worst piece of salmon I had on the trip, but this is a case of their worst is better than some other peoples best. After lunch we made another rest stop, then boarded the bus. As we were leaving Waterford a message came up the aisle and then I saw the problem, one of the overhead bins was open, with a Waterford Crystal bag sticking out. No one wanted to see that go wrong. The bin was closed and we started heading towards the Rock of Cahsel.

As we headed out of Waterford, there were some signs that read "Up Waterford", and Jerry explained they were not rude in any way, its just the Gaelic cheer translates to "Up" in English. As we were driving through town, we saw a house that was decorated in both the Waterford blue and white, and the Kilkenny colors of yellow and black, a house divided. A bit further in front of one business were no less than six flagpoles flying their Waterford flags at half staff, mourning their loss I suppose. We crossed a bridge and it was pointed out that it was a moving bridge, like a drawbridge, we passed by its control booth, and then we could see down to the harbor below. We then passed by what looked like a cornfield before passing through a major highway construction project. Soon the decorations changed from blue and white to yellow and black, so we must have entered Kilkenny, but we would only be passing through on our way to County Tipperary.

Jerry talked a little bit about the train service in Ireland, how the country thought it was a good idea to build the rail lines, but it was up to each area to furnish their own trains, which led to some unique cases like one area using horse drawn train cars. We were heading, as I said, to the Rock of Cashel. The Rock of Cashel started out as a castle for the King of Munster but almost nothing remains of that era, it was next turned into a religious site and the remains on the site these days are from that era. We started going up the hills to the Rock but the bus stopped about a block from the actual site. If I weren't cynical I'd think it had something to do with the Rock of Cashel shop located right across from where we parked. We unloaded, and then walked up the hillside quite a ways until we reached the entrance to reception. We still had to walk up a flight of stairs outside, then go in the door, then up another flight of stairs to the reception area. One wing of the reception area contains a museum like area and the other the ticket sales area with some guide books for sale. Jerry introduced our group and indicated he would be our guide. He then proceeded to hand over a large check, and here I thought these kinds of arrangements were always made in advance. After arrangements were made, we climbed up another fligt of stairs and out another door onto the grounds. Instead of heading directly to the cathedral which was straight ahead we made a right and headed to Cormacs Chapel. We entered the building though a modern door that has been retrofitted into the original doorway.

Cormac's Chapel dates back to the 1100's and some of the unique features are a barrel roof on the inside, that is a regular pointed roof on the outside. Also on the inside a lot of the arches and intricate stonework is still present. Jerry mentioned that a lot of the windows have since been bricked in when the building was converted into a house at some time. We left Cormacs Chapel and walked around the outside around to the round tower, which is the oldest surviving building on the rock. It was noted the entrance is some 12 feet above the ground. This was a practical need due to the shallow foundation, but it was also good for defense as the people inside could just pull up the ladder. After seeing the round tower, we headed around and walked through the graveyard where some examples of Celtic crosses could be seen. While walking around the exterior of the cathedral we could see scaffolds and workers busy on the restoration. After walking through the graveyard we entered the cathedral proper.